We check out the new rooms at Fife’s finest foodie retreat, The Shoregate in Crail
The Shoregate, Crail, Fife
Of the attractions of Fife the jewels of the East Neuk and St Andrews are the ones which shine brightest. It’s tempting to string them together as Instagram gems on a coastal drive. But take time to linger in a single village – see how the light plays on the stone, the shore line changes as the tide goes out and village life ebbs and flows – and it’s a richer experience.
An overnight at The Shoregate in Crail means I can do just that. I really am on the edge of Fife – almost as far north and east as you can go.
The Shoregate has been sweeping up glowing reviews for its food since it opened in 2022 and has this year added bedrooms, making it a glorious gastronomic destination. It’s also a popular spot for live music.
The vision of owners Nicholas Frost and Damon Reynolds, The Shoregate’s four bedrooms are striking and yet comforting, with thoughtful touches making them the ideal place to lay your head. All that’s needed is an excuse for a good appetite to put the dishes of head chef Craig McAllister to the test. That’s easily solved by exploring what is right on the doorstep in the ancient Royal Burgh.
Budget or boutique
The Shoregate is boldly boutique, perfect for an indulgent short break.
Room service
The attention to detail is impressive – the bespoke furniture made nearby; the placement of fixtures on the geometric bathroom tiles; Arran Aromatics toiletries; fluffy bathrobe and slippers; coffee machine and the delightful china mugs designed by the Crail Gallery.
Wining and dining
After a day in the sea air, a cocktail and a sumptuous meal are what’s needed. In the cosy Back Bar we toast our good fortune with a Basil Gimlet, before heading into the light-filled dining room for our culinary adventure. We think we’ll start gently by sharing the home-made sea trout gravadlax and its fishy buddies, alongside springy sourdough from the Wild Hearth bakery. What we get are bursts of intense sea flavours playing well against the grapefruit, horseradish and pickled fennel.
Both our main choices – plump lamb rump and juicy pork belly – come with perfect plate pals. My tender lamb is joined by a stack of Lyonnaise potato, farce (kale-wrapped truffle and celeriac sausage) and just the right amount of sauce to create the most moreish meal.
In a fit of pure indulgence we round off with desserts. Although the cherry Bakewell on the other side of the table is delicious, I think I land lucky with my choice of sticky maple tart. The caramel nuttiness teams up with the orange beautifully, but it is the crystallised pecan - so light and crispy that it almost dissolves as you bite it – that is the star player.
After a delicious feast it is such a treat to be able to head upstairs to one of the four super stylish bedrooms.
Worth getting out of bed for?
Crail itself deserves exploring. The pantiles, craw-stepped gables, warm rusty stone and white paint make it typical of the East Neuk. It’s obligatory to linger down at the harbour, but also take time to explore the urban side of the ancient royal burgh. In the Museum and Heritage Centre information feels authentic and is backed up by enthusiastic volunteers: it makes a good starting point for your wandering.
Explore Crail Kirkyard with its impressive Mort House and monuments to earlier citizens. Discover the cool courtyard of Crail Pottery and all its alluring pots. Handicrafts, art and local produce fill the shops.
My “find” is the 16th century doocot. Striking as you approach, I assumed it is just to look at. However I try the door and discover this bird house is a testimony to artisan art. I’m only slightly freaked out by the e-cackle of the doves as I admire the recently restored interior with its 700 nesting boxes.
If you must venture further afield, head for the Cambo Estate with its woodlands and walled garden or just take a coffee and home-made cake in the stables café. If the beach is more your thing, then you’ll need sharp eyes to spot the road to Cambo Sands just before you get into the village of Kingsbarns. The reward is a car park, food shack and a lovely two-mile stretch of beach.
Of course, St Andrews is only 10 miles away, and there are plenty of golf courses to play, but this little corner of Fife really has everything you need on a short break.
Little extras
The home-make macaron and drink on the table beside my armchair encourages me to sit down and relax. The gin is from Darnley’s, the distillery at Kingsbarns where you can see gin and whisky being made – and even make your own gin.
Guest book comment
I felt like I’d been away for days rather than 36 hours – definitely the sign of a good short break.
Factfile
The Shoregate, 67 High Street North, Crail, KY10 3RA, 01333 451 815
Rooms in high season start at £250 per night and include breakfast; low season from £160. Reservations can be made directly on theshoregate.com or booking.com.
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