Destination Dining: Sunday brunch at Fairmont St Andrews is a coastal Scottish feast

They know something about spectacle at Fairmont St Andrews. First of all there is the setting, with the fairways of the links golf course set against the coastal views from the clifftop location and the historic university town shimmering in the distance. Then comes the centrepiece of the resort, when you step into the grand atrium with its impossibly tall ceilings, sense of light and space topped by the 60m long Zephyr ceiling sculpture by artist George Singer.

In this context, it seems fitting that curtains are drawn back to signal the start of brunch in the hotel’s Squire restaurant, a ritual that takes place on the first Sunday of each month. With a theatrical touch, the food stations for your afternoon buffet are revealed, laden with Scottish produce and other treats. It’s the beginning of an unhurried, relaxed and dazzling display of hospitality.

The brunch unfolds inside the hotel’s airy brasserie. Guests drift between colourful food stations that feel more artistic displays than buffet counters. There’s a raw bar layered with oysters, langoustines, and smoked salmon with a whisper of peat. Then cured meats and cheeses, salads and meat terrines. Pizza slices for the kids before they roam towards the dessert station, an irresistible landscape of tarts, buns mousses, chocolate and cheesecakes.

All the while, live music plays in the background and drinks can be delivered to your table. The real pleasure is in the pacing. This is a brunch designed to be lingered over and enjoyed, whether you are with family or friends. What sets the Fairmont’s brunch apart is its sense of place. Its ingredients are largely local, its atmosphere relaxed despite the grandeur of the setting, and its rhythm tuned to the leisurely tempo of a Scottish Sunday. Families gather after windswept walks along the Old Course shoreline; couples settle in after quiet mornings at the spa. The staff seem to understand that brunch here is about the mood they create as much as it is about the food.

After sufficiently revelling in the buffet there is still time for the arrival of your main courses, in our case roast sirloin of beef with roast potatoes and vegetables with Yorkshire pudding alongside seared cod with spinach crushed new potatoes and honey mustard sauce. Should you select the bottomless brunch option you can also enjoy four alcoholic drinks in accordance with Scottish licensing laws.

It’s luxurious setting to unwind with friends or gather with the family for a spectacular meal at St Andrews. You can find out more about the dining options at one of Scotland’s best hotels here.

Fairmont St Andrews, Kingask House, St Andrews KY16 8PN