The ‘oldest and greatest’ Scottish whisky hotel that's an ideal country retreat
This historic former railway hotel is an ideal base for exploring Scotland’s most prolific whisky region, finds Rosalind Erskine.
An establishment dubbed Scotland’s “oldest and greatest” whisky hotel, from the off, sounds like a place to book, especially if you’re a whisky fan. And if you are, you’ll not be disappointed by the Craigellachie hotel in Speyside. Home to a cosy pub and a famous whisky bar, it’s a stylish abode (no shortbread tin twee tartan here) which has a lovely food and drink offering.
If you’re not a whisky fan, don’t be put off, as Speyside is more than just Scotland’s biggest whisky region. There are plenty of outdoor activities, independent eateries and shops and you’re not far from the coast. After exploring, the Craigellachie is a welcome place to return to and relax, with its roaring fires (ideal in winter) and spacious beer garden (excellent when the sun shines) as well as the comfortable rooms.
Budget or boutique?
With only 26 rooms and with prices from £220 per night, this is very much a boutique offering.
Room service
We stayed in a Comfy Luxe room, which had a king sized, hand-painted four poster bed with beautiful Johnsons of Elgin throw and pillows, a spacious bathroom, armchairs by the window and views out to the Elchies woods. As with the entire hotel, the style of the room was understated and stylish, with a palette of greens, tweeds and neutrals that complement, but don’t distract from the hotel’s stunning location.


Wining and dining
There are two options for dinner, the Spey Inn pub - serving classic pub grub such as burgers and fish and chips - and Geamair (pronounced Ge-med and meaning gamekeeper in Gaelic), which is a room at the back of the pub which is transformed into a fine dining restaurant on Thursday to Saturday. This is head chef Pawel Sowa and general manager Tom Jolly’s creation and it’s well worth booking if you want a true, seasonal taste of Speyside with dishes cooked with imagination and flair.
Upstairs you’ll find the famous Quaich whisky bar - surely one of the most photogenic bars in Scotland - and a tranquil living room with its pastel colour palette and cashmere throws,it’s an ideal spot to relax before dinner or in the afternoon. Breakfast is served in a bright and spacious room near reception and comprises a small buffet with fruit, pastries and cereal as well as an a la carte menu with dishes such as a full breakfast and classic porridge.
Worth getting out of bed for
Speyside is Scotland’s most prolific whisky region and home to more than 50 distilleries as well as the Malt Whisky Trail. Nearby you’ll find big name distilleries such as Aberlour, Glenfiddich and the Macallan. The blending experience at Strathisla is ideal for those looking to test their skills and is located in a beautiful room in what’s thought of as one of Scotland’s prettiest distilleries.
The Speyside cooperage is also only nearby and a very interesting tour but for those not into whisky, the Speyside Way is right on the hotel’s doorstep and provides a lovely walk to Aberlour and beyond or Dufftown, following the famous river.There’s fishing for those keen and plenty of historic sites nearby – including Ballindalloch Castle – or you could visit Knockando Woolmill and Johnstons of Elgin to bring home some of the hotel’s style.


Little extras
The rooms all have good tea and coffee facilities and Walker’s shortbread, made in Aberlour. There’s also an ironing board, hair dryer and the hotel’s bespoke, full sized toiletries, created by whisky maker Sarah Burgess. The Whisky Mist range smells divine and can be bought at reception.
Guestbook comments
Built in 1893, where the rivers Fiddich and Spey come together, the small 26-room hotel stands at the very heart of Speyside and its malt whisky trail. Speyside is the largest whisky region in the world with over half of Scotland’s distilleries, and the Quaich bar is one of the world’s leading whisky bars.
Once you’ve built up an appetite, pull up a chair beside the fire in the hotel’s cosy Spey Inn pub for lunch or dinner. The fare is strictly Scottish with produce sourced from Speyside where possible. The Craigellachie feels like a countryside family-home and we invite you to make yourself at home here.
Hotel info
Craigellachie Hotel, Victoria St, Craigellachie, Speyside AB38 9SR (01340 881 204, www.craigellachiehotel.co.uk)
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