Exploring Zanzibar, birthplace of Freddie Mercury and a land of spices

I arrived on the main island of Unguja, commonly known simply as Zanzibar. More than a little travel-weary after a series of flights from Scotland, I welcomed the blast of balmy air that held the promise of pleasant days to come. Five of us boarded a minivan waiting to take us to the Residence - a five-star resort on the southwest coast of the island. Most tourists head to the north which is where you go if you want to windsurf, party on the beach, and generally hang out in crowds.

The Residence is the antithesis of all that. Its accommodation is comprised of a series of 64 private villas, each with its own small pool and all set within 34 hectares of grounds. The helpful staff have a constant refrain of “hakuna matata”- a phrase which translates from Swahili as “All good, no worries” and which we were to hear in other places too.

The grounds are a mixture of wild and cultivated. Vibrant flowers and established greenery create an environment which is as nurturing for people as it is for animals. Butterflies are plentiful as are brightly coloured tropical birds. Then there are the shy dik-dik. These miniature antelope mainly come out after dark, but we did see them on occasion. We all enjoyed the antics of the many mischievous monkeys living alongside us.

One day, we set out to the Jozani Forest to learn about the rare Zanzibar Red-Colobus Monkeys. Only a few thousand are left and they are indigenous to Zanzibar having evolved separately from their continental counterparts. The Red- Colobuses are relatively shy creatures, and we were lucky to see them at home in the trees with their young. They have red and black fur, only four digits on each hand, and make loud chattering noises. Our guide led us onwards to a mangrove boardwalk where sunlight filtered through foliage and there was a calming hush.

Another day we spent a few hours on and off a dhow in the Indian Ocean. A snorkelling session revealed glimpses of neon bright darting fish against a background of grey, lifeless coral. The latter is a consequence of a variety of factors not least the presence of too many tourist boats. This was sad to see, but there are some initiatives already underway around the islands to restore this important habitat.

Zanzibar has a vivid and somewhat turbulent past. Noble Prize-Winning author Abdulrazak Gurnah who was born there is known for his compelling story-telling and nuanced characterisation. Much of his work challenges the prevalent narrative surrounding his homeland which tends to portray it as an isolated outpost. He focuses instead on Zanzibar’s longstanding interconnectedness.

For millennia the seasonal winds brought traders who exchanged goods and helped shape local culture. Some put down roots. The Islamic religion which predominates to this day is just one tangible legacy of these phenomena. People came from other parts of Africa, from Iraq and from India. Even the Greeks and Romans are thought to have put ashore. So, Zanzibar was never a place waiting to be discovered by colonialists with their mixed agendas.

Colonialisation did occur though. The Portuguese held sway for almost 200 years. Then, in 1698 the Sultanate of Oman took control of the archipelago. At that time the slave trade, and the pedalling of ivory from elephants that had been hunted on continental Africa were mainstays of the local economy, as were cash crops such as spices. The latter earned Zanzibar the moniker of the Spice Islands along with the Maluku islands, situated in what is now Indonesia.

Elizabeth David - the well-travelled and renowned cookery writer who was credited with bringing flavour and exoticism to British cuisine in the post-war years and beyond - had a profound understanding of the value of spices. She wrote, “In Europe, spices were the jewels and furs and brocades of the kitchen and the still-room”. They were indeed.

We paid a visit to a spice farm which was surprisingly natural and uncultivated in appearance. Pepper vines snaked up their host trees and pineapple plants and lemongrass could be spotted in amongst grasses. We were invited to identify some plants by smell. There was cinnamon, nutmeg, and vanilla along with turmeric, cloves and just about any other spice you might have in your kitchen cupboard. The guide had skilfully created bags and other accessories out of palm leaves and flowers.

Stone Town, a UNESCO world heritage site, on the west coast of the island holds the key to many past events. Its labyrinthine streets lead to mosques, shops, churches, to an Anglican Cathedral and to a museum outlining the history of the East African slave trade. You can even go into what were once the holding cells for enslaved people.

By the time the British took Zanzibar over as a protectorate in the late 19th century, they had drafted a mission statement about ending slavery and improving the economy, but of course, major trading interests were motivating factors. In 1896 the shortest war in recorded history took place over the course of just 38 minutes, when Britain exerted extreme Naval force to ensure their preferred sultan came to power.

Another famous Zanzibari is the late rock singer Freddie Mercury who was born in Stone Town. His former home is now known as Mercury House, and is a museum. Both Mercury and Gurnah left for Britain shortly after Zanzibar gained independence and around the time of the 1964 uprising when people of Arabic and Indian extraction faced extreme danger and many were, in fact, killed.

It was always good to retreat to the Residence where there is a 40-metre infinity pool and a spa offering massage treatments as well as a pavilion for taking part in yoga classes. We went foraging in an area of the grounds called the Earth Basket and used what we had collected, along with other ingredients to prepare local recipes under expert supervision.

Sometimes, after sunset, we dined at an elegant candlelit table on the beach, enjoying local seafood, Indian inspired dishes, tropical fruits, and classical, international deserts. The food offering, the cool grandeur of a private, marble-floored bathroom and a four-poster bed to flop into at the end of the day, were much appreciated luxuries.

Back home now, I am inspired to continue learning about Zanzibar and look forward to seeing how it faces the ubiquitous challenges of balancing economic concerns with environmental ones. There is something about the unique nature of the place that inspires a sense of optimism regarding its future and a belief in the resilience of its people. And there is a memorable mantra that sums up that feeling; hakuna matata.