Traditional Norway is waiting to be explored from this Bergen hotel

They are my first stop as I explore Bergen but, although tantalisingly close to my hotel the Scandic Neptun, I need to walk around the busy Vågen bay, past the modern fish market, historic ships and tourist shops to reach the Bryggen, the city’s historic core.

A Unesco World Heritage Site, the Bryggen was a Hanseatic enclave and it encapsulates the story of Bergen. It is also the place every visitor is drawn to: the tall wooden houses, narrow passages, arts galleries and craft shops are thronged during daylight.

The Scandic Neptun is ideally positioned to let you dip into the Bryggen, but it’s also close to the city’s cool Scandi-vibe shops, museums and galleries and convenient for the tram stop to the airport and its direct flight to Edinburgh or Aberdeen.

Budget or boutique

It feels classy as you step into the soaring lobby space with its eye-catching pieces of art but, in an expensive county, the Scandic Neptun is good value for money.

Room service

I have a large room with views north down to Vågen and its floating traffic and west across the rooftops of the Nordnes peninsula. It has a functional edge, softened by the comforting Nordic colour palette jazzed up with a pop of burnt sienna. The room’s amenities are well thought-through from the free wifi, safe and tea-making kit to the comfy chair, space to work and large shower room.

Wining and dining

The hotel’s breakfast spread inspires me with plenty of Norwegian delicacies to try so I go in search of traditional Bergen fare. I have a creamy fish soup in Bien Basar close to the Bryggen. Part of a dramatically ornate building, Kjøttbasaren which was once the meat market, Bien Basar has a bistro vibe and a reputation for using local produce. Served with crusty bread and whipped butter, its cod soup with a drizzle of dill oil and slivers of veg is delicately judged – silky but not too rich.

Pingvinen is another established destination for Bergen dishes and my lapskaus, a piping hot stew of salted lamb, cubes of root vegetables served with buttered flatbread, packs a hearty hug at the end of a long day sightseeing. The whole experience is warm and welcoming: penguin motifs abound, the bar is buzzing and people are queuing for tables.

Attempting to return to try more of the Pingvinen menu on a busy Saturday night, I end up downstairs in its sister restaurant. Frk Schmidt offers many of the same dishes but I’m tempted by a special of ling served on potatoes and pumpkin and carrot puree. Frk Schmidt might look plain, but that was a sophisticated plate.

In complete contrast, another day I devour a reindeer sausage hotdog from one of the city’s most iconic street food spots, Trekroneren.

Worth getting out of bed for?

You can’t go to Bergen without exploring the Bryggen, but the rest of the north shore of the Vågen offers everything from street art to history. Powered by my Bergen Card which gives me discounts and free entries, I get a sweep of Norwegian history.

I dip into the town’s foundations and archaeology at the Bryggens Museum and move on through the centuries at Rosenkrantz Tower. The Second World War and Norway’s brave resistance fighters are the focus at the Bergenhus Fortress Museum. There are other museums to see, but coffee stops call.

As I walk between churches, shops and galleries, I become obsessed with the street murals: humorous or political, they can’t help but grab your attention. For a bird’s eye view of Vågen and its north shore, I take the funicular up Mount Fløyen and realise I’ve only explored a tiny part of Norway’s second city.

Little extras

The Scandic chain, which has eight hotels in Bergen, has a strong sustainable streak so automatic towel changes are out and waste sorting is in. This is backed up with behind-the scenes choices for using local produce and careful resource use.

Guestbook comment

Perfectly positioned, the Scandic Neptun is a great base for both leisure and business

travellers.

Factfile

Scandic Neptun, Valkendorfsgate 8, Bergen. Pricing is dynamic and based on demand. see website for current details (www.scandichotels.com/en/hotels/scandic-neptun)

Tourist information www.visitbergen.com

Bergen Card offers free or discounted rates for a range of museums, tours and restaurants; free travel on buses, light rail and boats in the Bergen region. (en.visitbergen.com/bergen-card)

Logan Air operates direct flights from Edinburgh to Bergen. www.loganair.co.uk

Eating out: Pingvinen, Vaskerelven 14, Bergen, Frk Schmidt, Vaskerelvsmauet. Bergen (www.frkschmidt.no); Trekroneren, Kong Oscars Gate 1, Bergen (www.facebook.com/3kroneren), Bien Basar, Vetrlidsallmenningen 2, Bergen (www.bienbar.no/en/basar)