I visited the floating garden of the Atlantic, the island of Madeira

Although there has been a luxury hotel on this site since 1912, the Savoy Palace is a completely new building which opened in 2019. Yet for all its contemporary touches – from gadgets to sustainability features – echoes of the past linger in the attention to detail and standards of service, albeit delivered in a thoroughly modern way.

Budget or boutique

Treat yourself to a luxury stay in one of the 300 bedrooms or suites.

Room service

My Superior Ocean Suite is heaven – from the moment I open the door and the curtains automatically peel back to reveal the sea beyond the generous sitting room. In fact, I’m in double heaven as there are two terraces... and two bathrooms. The main one has a roll-top bath and dressing room, as well as a pair of sinks and a spacious shower. Acres of crisp linen, fragrant toiletries and evening chocolates on the pillow mean I look forward to the end of each day.

Wining and dining

In a hotel with almost a dozen places to eat and drink, choosing a dinner venue could be a problem. At Terreiro the lights twinkle all the way up to the curves of the palm leaves, there’s a soft breeze and the gentle throb of the street beyond. It’s the perfect first night venue – sophisticated without being pretentious. Terreiro is a place where Portuguese recipes are given a contemporary twist aligned to the seasons. For the main it has to be the most national dish on the menu – Portuguese style steak (Bife à Portuguesa). The juicy rib eye is topped with ham served in a rich red wine sauce balanced on potatoes and is a simple green salad.

Below the gentle curve of the hotel Pau de Lume strikes the clever balance of looking swanky but having an engaging informal atmosphere. My starter octopus is a checker board of styles – crispy skin, tender bites and the Josper grill in its element, dotted with kimchi sauce and garlic mayonnaise. Sirloin with langoustine “surf and turf” lets the grill shine again before the hotel’s famous ice-creams take the spotlight. There is a sphere of salted caramel with pistachio crumb, a disc of meringue and wafer cigar. I enjoy the buzz of other diners on the terrace, then as the full moon rises, I welcome the hug of a thoughtfully offered blanket.

The Lobby Lounge is the at the heart of the hotel and a great spot in the evenings when the pianist plays. In the afternoon they serve a sumptuous afternoon tea, featuring a beguiling array of cakes.

It’s a whole other world up on the 16th floor, where Galáxia sits beside a skybar and rooftop infinity pool. Culinary imagination is in full flight as Madeira-inspired fine dishes create a constellation of flavour journeys. Tough to pick a favourite here but the squares of Wagyu and corn were in nice contrast to the fishy delicacies and the dessert which pimped the Madeiran poncha cocktail.

I thought I was at the Savoy Palace’s peak, but I hadn’t expected Nikkei to effortlessly pull out all the stops with its Japanese banquet. Chef Bruno openly works his magic in this intimate salon, creating a feast of flavour. From sakizuke (appetiser) to kanmi (dessert) the eyes are delighted and tastebuds tingled with the tasting menu. Shrimp tempura, beetroot-cured salmon sogi-zukuri, seabass sashimi and chicken ramen take you on an Asian adventure rounded off with marinated pineapple, lemon sorbet and a joyful burst of popping candy.

Worth getting out of bed for

Funchal is punctuated by parks and gardens, so even a walk into town is a riot of colour. Alongside the tropical plants, you’ll also spot walls of colourful tiles, picture pavements, delicate needlework and a street of painted doors. First-time visitors will tour Blandy’s Wine Lodge to get a taste for the fortified wine; meet the island’s football legend Cristiano Ronaldo in the form of a statue at his museum or ride in the famous basket toboggans. With a 1,400km network of water channels across the island, a “levada” walk is another popular activity and is a great introduction to the Madeiran countryside. I take the cable car from the waterfront to Monte, the area perched on the cliffs above Funchal. My destination is the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens where as well as getting close to the island’s plants, there’s lunchtime music and a mesmerising flamboyance of flamingos.

Little extras

The hotel’s Laurea Spa is inspired by the island’s native Laurissilva forest. The vibe is is serene and indulgent, with both a full range of treatments, as well as water, salt and heat experiences, an indoor pool and fitness room. A skilful massage banishes all thoughts of work and rejuvenates my desk-bound muscles ready for some serious relaxation.

Guest book comment

With all its luxurious facilities, it is very easy to remain in the comforting embrace of the Savoy Palace.

Savoy Palace, Avenida do Infante, 25, Funchal. Rooms from 300 euros a night. www.savoysignature.com/savoypalacehotel/en/

Jet2 operates flights from Edinburgh and Glasgow (and other UK cities) to Funchal. www.jet2.com

Madeira Promotion Bureau www.visitmaderia.com