I visited this Edinburgh restaurant to find out if they really serve the 'world's best burger'
It’s been a while since I had a really good burger
To get into burger mode, I had to psyche myself up.
According to the pic I’d seen on social media, the absolute beast that I’d be tackling on my visit to Hawksmoor Edinburgh looked about ten storeys high, and was oozing with orange cheese. This was going to be one of those Gaby vs Food moments.
Cue priming my hunger, with two fitness classes and a couple of power-walking circuits of St Andrew Square, before taking my sweaty and ravenous frame along to Edinburgh’s Hawksmoor.
At this destination, they’re temporarily slinging The Big Matt, which was named the No.1 Burger in the World by World’s Best Steak Restaurants back in 2023.
This is its first time on the Scottish menu and it’s named after the restaurant’s founder, group executive chef, Matt Brown, who created it in tribute to Maccy D’s original Big Mac. This is especially significant as, apparently, Brown along with Hawksmoor’s co-founders, Huw Gott, first met and bonded over their love of a McMuffin.
Still, we won’t penalise them for that.
The Big Matt is sadly not a permanent addition to the Capital’s menu, but will only be around until November 18. Choose from two Big Matt Deals - the Big Matt, beef dripping fries and Shaky Pete’s Ginger Brew (£25) or swap the alcoholic beverage for their cornflake milkshake, for £21 in total.


We tried both, and a couple of their preprandial gimlets (£13 each) with gin, lime and lemon marmalade, lime leaf cordial and clarified yogurt. These were icy and fresh - a citrus blast to cut through any lard that might be forthcoming.
Once we’d ordered, I felt so ready for the challenge, and same goes for my dining partner, who had been on a long pre-burger cycle, though he’d got a bit too hungry, and had to eat a spoonful of peanut butter before he left the house.
We goggled and drooled at all the other tables, who were all taking delivery of Sunday roasts that had billowing huge Yorkshire puddings on top, like cloche hats.
Our faltering blood sugar was restored, when the drinks came. That milkshake is very comforting - malty, like Ovaltine, frothy, and not-too-sweet, with a few cornflakes on top. It was light enough that you could sook it up the straw - well, except the cornflake bit - without having to pull your cheeks in and heave, as if you’re reverse blowing-up a paddling pool.
This was our first time trying Hawksmoor’s Shaky Pete's Ginger Brew, which is one of their Sacred Six list of original cocktails that never leave the drinks list. It contains Beefeater Gin, lemon juice, ginger and London Pride amber ale, for a sweet and spicy long drink that reminded me of a boozy ice-cream float.
“It can cure all ailments,” the waiter said, and I was convinced. Usually, I go for this restaurant’s classic sour cherry negroni (£12), but this might be my new fave.
Then the burgers arrived. My goodness. They are sturdy, with two patties, and a third layer of bun, in the middle. I’m so happy that they’re not those freak burgers that were fashionable a few years ago. You know, the sloppy ones with everything but the kitchen sink piled on. These are very classic - the meat is coarse and charred, there’s chopped iceberg, melted cheese, a sesame bun, and a really good piquant relish, plus a few gherkins. Nothing jars. It’s old school Americana.
And, on the side, is a little bottle of homemade ketchup, and some amazingly salty beef dripping fried skinny fries.
Joy. I may hate Maccy Ds. I’m not even much of a burger fan, but I can get onboard with this.
“It’s like what a Big Mac would be like in heaven, rather than reality,” said my other half.
I ate it all, and imbibed every last sip of the milkshake and that cocktail.
Afterwards, our server asked if we wanted to try a dessert, since they’ve got three newbies on the list - lemon tart (£9) with creme fraiche ice-cream; coconut and passionfruit pavlova (£8.50) with coconut ice-cream and a plum and almond crostata (£8.50) with buttermilk ice-cream.
But, no, we had tapped out. My eyes were glazed. I had won this round of Gaby Vs Food, but a second bout would probably be OTT.
Anyway, I wouldn’t argue with their ‘world’s best’ title and, if there’s a petition to get it permanently added to the Edinburgh menu, my name will be on the list.
23 West Register Street, Edinburgh (0131 526 4790, www.thehawksmoor.com). To celebrate the launch, on Wednesday October 16, the Big Matt meal (the one with the milkshake), will be £7.29 - the same price of a Maccy D’s equivalent.
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