I had a superb lunch at my new favourite Scottish restaurant and it's not in Edinburgh

However, that confidence in my home town is not unshakeable.

Sometimes a jaunt to Glasgow leaves me questioning my beliefs, and wondering if I should move to our biggest city instead.

That happened on my recent lunch at a newbie, Eleven Fifty Five.

I say new, but it’s really just a rebrand for a 12-year-old established favourite, The Gannet. This institution has a new bistro-friendly look - mossy green walls, tall velvety chairs by the bar and a refreshed private dining area up the stairs - alongside a pivot from tasting menus to something more casual and flexible.

Their Irish head chef is Peter McKenna, who is fresh from his recent first appearance on Saturday Kitchen, and owns this place along with maitre d’ Kevin Dow.

Now, I am a bit of a control freak, and usually settle on what I’m going to order while I’m en route. However, when we got here, I decided to relinquish my comfort zone, and let them choose what we should eat instead. That’s so unusual that it gave me the same adrenaline hit as free climbing the Glasgow Tower in my batman suit.

The first item to arrive was the bread, with two cakey and malty slices and sea-salted brioche buns, plus enough butter to baste a turkey. Well, they had me at hello.

This was followed by a set of six Cumbrae oysters with a Vietnamese dressing (£21) consisting of chilli, a vinegary hot sauce and crispy shallot rings. Utterly heavenly sea sprites. The fresh saline taste made me feel newly baptised by the ocean.

The next dish in this tombola was the beef tartare (£15) from the tender barrel fillet cut. There were cool nuggets of ruby meat, vibrant dollops of parsley emulsion, and shallot rings, with palm-sized sourdough crisps on the side and a bonus bone marrow, which was topped with more shallots and toasted seeds.

We also had a dreamy herring starter (£13), with soused and silvery pieces of fish, as well as a horseradish ice-cream, and pretty feathery leaves, plus petals of borage and nasturtium.

Had I died, and gone to heaven? It was starting to feel like that. Maybe I’d had a funny turn on the train and couldn’t be revived.

Course four was the special’s board option of “shells” (£12.50) as Dow called them. This dish consisted of around 14 sweet- as-Chelsea-whoppers Barra cockles and buttery mussels in an anchovy based and terracotta-coloured Cafe de Paris butter. Ooh-la-my-goodness-la. We polished the plate with our leftover bread.

Then another shareable main-sized course of John Dory (£32) - a delicate piece of on-the-bone fish that was teamed with salty deep-fried capers, green peppercorns, and a caramelised chicken wing reduction. It came with the last of the season’s asparagus, and a plush, slick and super rich portion of pale yellow pomme puree (£7.50), which was topped with nibbly crispy potato shards, vinegar powder and sea salt.

I thought the puddings might bring the mood down, as that sometimes happens when the savoury courses are so assured, but they didn’t. They were just as impressive. There was a fun and playful choux bun (£12) that was filled with buttermilk cream and a fragrant strawberry jus, and was draped with a sheet of seed-spotted strawberry jelly and a scoop of baby pink strawberry sorbet.

The chocolate bar dessert (£12) was the perfect counterpoint to this fruity number, with a seductively rich praline, caramel and dark chocolate ganache “bar” that was flanked by tuile sails and came with a malty Guinness ice-cream.

It was battering down with rain now, so we lingered inside over our beautiful cocktails - an Eleven Fifty Five Martini (£14) with Boatyard Double Gin, Noilly Prat and a twist of lemon, and a tall flute full of French 1155 (£16) that featured Botanist Distiller’s Strength, cucumber, lemon, sugar, and cremant d’Alsace.

I booked an Uber to take us back to the station, and we stalled a bit more until it arrived.

That also involved popping to the loo again, just so we could have another look at the interesting home-grown mushrooms that are burgeoning in a case in the downstairs corridor.

Back in the dining space, and I wondered why this place wasn’t busier. If we lived in Glasgow, we’d be regulars. In fact, we’d be pests.

Quick check of Rightmove while we wait? Go on then.

1155 Argyle Street, Glasgow (0141 204 2081, www.bistroelevenfiftyfive.com)

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