Brian Elliott: Taste the highlights of a successful Scottish partnership

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It was an agreeable lunch for two Scots that provided the genesis of From Vineyards Direct. Esme Johnstone was co-founder of Majestic Wines and once top man at Château de Sours. David Campbell was a successful publisher – having revived the Everyman’s Library and been the leading light with France’s Guide Hachette des Vins.

Parallels between book jackets and a well designed website excited Campbell in particular and offered the pair an excellent, modestly priced, vehicle to help UK consumers up their average spend per bottle by 50 per cent, yet increase its quality exponentially. As the name implies, avoiding middle men helped contain costs. So, drawing on their contacts across France, Italy and Spain, they sourced classy, well-made wine that they sell here nowadays in the £8-£20 category – with some declassified wines representing particular bargains.

So let’s select a few highlights – starting with whites. Although the mellow, lime, apple and mango-based 2015 Pont de Gassac (£11.95) from Herault is hugely impressive, my star white is from Spain. Godello produces really classy wine in Galicia and 2015 Ondas del Alma Godello (£9.95) is one of the best versions I have tasted this year. It has fresh, floral, greengage fruit given richness by sweeter spices and apricot-centred depth, yet enlivened by citrus acidity.

For a great red (from an excellent vintage) opt for 2010 Château Jos (£9.95) – an aromatic and textured, 50:50 merlot cabernet blend. Its fruit combines elderberry and black cherry without much tannin to obscure its delights, but those flavours are splendidly embellished with suggestions of mint, aniseed, cloves and hints of graphite.

Over the Pyrenees, we find another classic. Dark and intense 2009 Rioja Vega Gran Reserva (£14.95) supports its bramble and sour cherry fruit with rich mocha and nutmeg elements, a mineral edge and surprisingly vibrant acidity for a gran reserva, but remarkably soft tannin.