Did the Dutch teach the Scots how to make whisky? The ‘significant’ role three men played in creating Scotch
Is the birth of “refined” Scotch whisky down to the Dutch? A new episode of a whisky YouTube channel explores the link between the two countries, and how the Dutch were central to helping the Scots distill malt spirit, finds Rosalind Erskine.
The origins and creation of any ancient food or drink are often myriad in myth and stories. Take, for example, the haggis. It’s our national dish but did it come from England or the Vikings? And what about whisky? We’re known the world over for single malts and blends, but how did we come to make it, as we do, today? Distilled to a very fine method, matured in oak for over three years and in Scotland. Whisky experts Dave Broom and Arthur Motley recently took a look at the Dutch influence in Scotch, and examined this country’s part in how we made whisky, back in the 18th century. On their Liquid Antiquarium YouTube channel, the duo have taken a deep dive into Scotch’s history and asked if the Dutch helped teach the Scots how to make “refined” whisky.
The story of the history of Scotch whisky tends to be around how distillation came from monks way before the rural farmer making singular, small batch production made from excess grain. While this is true, the growth and refinement of Scotch whisky - and how we’d recognise it today - came about with the 1823 excise act but Mr Broom and Mr Motley, in this online discussion, argue that this is not the start of “quality” distilled whisky in Scotland. They showcase examples of how Dutch men - Henricus Van Wyngaerden, Herman Boerhaave and William Y-Worth - were key in refining Scotch, which in the 17th and early 18th century, was probably rough and inconsistent compared to the other distilled spirits of the time such as jenever, cognac and rum.
Mr Broom said: “when did this idea of quality distillation, understandable to a modern audience, really start? There seems to be this idea when you looked at the the kind of authorised version of Scotch whisky history that this is going to be triggered by the 1823 Excise Act which undoubtedly was when kind of the proper commercial modern Scotch whisky industry began but the idea that 1823 was actually the start of quality distillation in scotch we think simply isn't true. Arthur, I seem to believe that you're coming dangerously close to saying that the Dutch invented Scotch whisky?”
Mr Motley replied saying: “I don't think either of us believe that people really invent a drink. Drinks develop and people and groups of people have more significant contributions to accelerate progress, if you want to call it that, towards a modern drink. Although they do get referenced, the Dutch have a far more significant role in whisky's history than is given credit for. Moving it from the situation in the 17th century and early 18th century where stuff was distilled from grain undoubtedly in Scotland but during this 18th century period where there’s a narrative that shows the Dutch were central to helping the Scots distill malt spirit.”
Die-hard whisky fans may have heard of Henricus Van Wyngaerden as he has been mentioned in history books for influencing the Scotch whisky industry but “as a bit of a byline” according to Mr Motley. Herman Boerhaave, Mr Motley said, is “an extremely significant person in the history of science from 1668 to 1738. He taught at Leiden University and he is known as the father of chemistry.”
So what did these two men do to refine Scotch whisky into what we know it as today? Boerhaave’s book, the Elements of Chemistry from 1732 gives detailed instructions on how to distill, including cutting the spirit (which is still done today, the heads and tails going back to be redistilled and the heart cut being the spirit cut that goes on to be matured). These instructions and methods ended up being used in Scotland, not because Dr Boerhaave visited here but the educational links to Scotland during the Enlightenment. Many Scots will have been taught by Boerhaave at the Leiden University (or booked lectures with him), meaning this distillation knowledge will have been transferred. Edinburgh’s Caledonian Mercury paper published in 1731 information collected from “the learned doctor Bur Harava and his new method of chemistry” showing the spread of this distilling information had made it to Scotland.
As for Mr Van Wyngaerden, in 1743 he was recruited by the Society of Improvers of Agriculture in Scotland to give technical advice to struggling estate distillers. His recommendations were on how to produce a “clean, refined spirit” by a long fermentation, double distillation and reusing “feints or tails” as we’d know them today.
Another notable Dutch man who wrote about distillation was doctor, alchemist and distiller, William Y-Worth who published ‘The Compleat Distiller’ in 1705. In this there’s a detailed account in how to distill “the Dutch way”, many points of which we’d recognise as how Scotch whisky is made today. English-based Y-Worth noted that a second distillation refines that spirit - something that English spirits were not doing at this time.
These men may not have made it to be household names when it comes to talking about the history of Scotch whisky, but their refining techniques - at the time of the Dutch Scottish relations within the Enlightenment - have no doubt made our national drink what it is today.
To watch the full episode, visit the Liquid Antiquarian YouTube channel.
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